….New painting …
Sol Winter Storm No.1. 2022 Oil on canvas 38×77 inches £3400
….New painting …
Sol Winter Storm No.1. 2022 Oil on canvas 38×77 inches £3400
…. The cycle tour of Iceland was the second country outside the UK that we have visited on our world cycle tour was also an opportunity to organise as a self funded self organised travelling artist in residence. I had also decided not to take any of my usual artist materials such as sketchbooks drawing materials and watercolours. I did not want to be influenced in how I would normaly creat an artwork, although I do fully expect to creat drawings and paintings as I normally would, that woukd be something I would begin during the usual winter pause in our world cycle tour. It was important to me to just SEE the place …. to immerse myself in the culture and character of Iceland and whereever possible visit museums and art galleries or visit public artworks to get the feel of how artists respond to Iceland. …. and to respond to the landscape in as pure a way as possible.
…. I also wanted to respond to the landscape in a way that left no environmental impact … this was super important …. secondly to divest from any commercial interests so that the artwork was not destined to be in a gallery and that the artworks could be free from any commercial influence. ….
…. This gallery then is a document of just a few of the land art stone balance sculptures I created as a direct response to the volcanic landscapes and character of Iceland …..
…. some I deliberately did not photograph …. some collapsed before I could image them …. and some are deliberately hidden ….
…. Some have titles …. Some not ….
…..Packed and ready to continue …. though when you find places like Clare Island with such spectacular landscapes a wealth of human and geological history it is always somewhat a wistful experience to leave such a place behind. We take with us the memory of this experience, the finding out about it’s history, the warm welcome of the people, the caracter of this place, and knowing that ahead of us is another opportunity of exploration of meetings to take place …. for me all this … this journey ….. is home …
…. Our next camp was at Westport and for a change we went into a campsite to expedite some much needed laundry ….
We were fascinated by the history of Oileán Chliara and the life of the pirate queen Gráinne Ní Mháille c. 1530 – c. 1603, told too us by the lady who worked behind the bar and after I had to tell my good friend Carole about this who then let me know that there is a statue to her in Cathair na Mart which was right next to our campsite ….. It was our main reason for stopping at Cathair na Mart, that and the fact that the campsite was a reasonable days ride away from Oileán Chliara.
Such was her power and influence that Gráinne Ní Mháille is thought to have met with Queen Elizabeth 1st in the late 15th century. It seems to me her character and her life was not unlike that of the great celtic warrior queen Maedhbh …… I love this history and this mythology …. It is thought that Gráinne Ní Mháille spoke French and Spanish and some claim that she conversed with Queen Elizabeth 1st in Latin, certainly Gráinne Ní Mháille met Queen Elizabeth 1st.
In her 2006 biography of O’Malley, Irish historian and novelist Anne Chambers described her as:
a fearless leader, by land and by sea, a political pragmatist and politician, a ruthless plunderer, a mercenary, a rebel, a shrewd and able negotiator, the protective matriarch of her family and tribe, a genuine inheritor of the Mother Goddess and Warrior Queen attributes of her remote ancestors. Above all else, she emerges as a woman who broke the mould and thereby played a unique role in history.
….and so we continue along a fantastic dedicated cycle path that took us most of the way from Cathair na Mart West …. a fab ride with several public artworks along the way ….
…. puncture time next to some interesting public artworks ….
…. and this was our next wild camp ….
…. 29th April ….
…. 29th April ….
…. 29th April ….
…. 29th April ….
…. and the next day we continued West to Achill and camped below the massive cairn that is thiought to be the burial place of the celtic warrior Queen Meadhbh ….
…. 30th April ….
1st May
…. 1st May …
….2nd May ….
…. the deserted village of Sliabh Mór …. another consquence of the …. Holocausd na nGaedheal
…. 2nd May ….
…. 2nd May ….
…. Not all wild camp sites are a combination of sublime views in a vast an incredible landscape …
…. sometimes as the weather changes we will make a descion to find a wild camp site before the weather turns proper wet. On this occassion it was only a slight drizzle but it looked like we were about to have a down pour. The ground was fairly rough and rocky there was not much room being a small alcove of a field surrounded on all sides with dense bush and one single track leading into this small place that had obviously not been used for some. time high up above the cycle path and out of everyone’s way … we had to clear the ground of dead wood and small rocks before pitching …..
4th May
…. on the road again …
…. 4th May ….
…. Look where we found to wild camp …. WOW …. This was a perfect wind camp no buildings or homes anywhere near and a fair ways from the road. We use google maps to check out the terrain we will be cycling through and make a note of likely looking places. This stream passed under a small bridge and we were able to easily climb down to the edge and follow the bank to this spot. It was one of those completely perfect places with enough dry wood on the ground for our stove … and as always to fall asleep to the sound of gently running water is just wonderful.
4th May
…. Setting up our wild camp for the night ….
…. Tent with a view ….
…. What an incredible place ….
…. Wild camp chef ….
…. We can even use the base of the stove to dry off any damp wood ….
…. Chef ….
…. Aaron’s wood gas burning stove is a tremendous piece of kit …. No need to chop any wood …. no need to break any branches …. no need to make a mess
plus it is high enough of the ground so as not to scortch the grass or risk any woodland fires …. Great Stuff ….
…. And what a fab meal to end the day ….
….As always what we bring to a wild camp …. we take with us when we leave ….
…. Wild camp in the dunes …. spot the tents time …. 5th May ….
We arrived first of all at a small and at the top end of the high street there was what seemed like a communal area with grass and benches, high walls open to the sky with plug sockets dotted at intervals around the walls. There were several benches with a covered area as well, and I suggested we camp here …. at first in jest …. but there was something about the area that suggested it woud be fine to do so, however Aaron was a tad uncertain and so as an alternative we had already noted a possible wild camp just 2 km away that was by the sea and we always find good places to wild camp in dunes. So reluctantly on my part … because I really wanted to camp in that communal area we headed for the dunes and found a great place to pitch. We had had intermittent rain throughout the day but were dry and pitched without any rain and helped a farmer find a lost calf that was happily resting in the long maram grass.
The oddest thing happened in the night …. at about 2 am we were woken by a distant voice on the beach reciting gaeilge poetry. the voice grew louder as it’s owner walked along the beach below the dunes and continued to fade into the distance only to grow louder once more as again the owner passed below our tent, continuing to recite some gaeilge verse. It was quite hypnotic and at no point were we scared at all. You could tell that the verse was in a rousing and enthusiastic tone. Who ever it was had a terrific voice and to here gaeilge spoken like this was wonderful, I am learnig gaeilge and could pick out the odd word but no chance to understand the whole which was a shame. The person also had a dog and the dog did find the tents and gave out a startled bark or two which then gave the person a moments pause …… and eventually the person made his way back home or so we assume …..
…. Our next wild camp …. also in dunes …. as you can see lasts nights adventure into gaeilge poetry only fired our enthusiasm for wild camping ….
…. Another wild camp by the sea …. 8th May ….
…. rainy day today …. and it very nearly destroyed my phone …. 9th May ….
… Cnoc na Riabh with Sol and the celtic warrior Meadhbh’s buriel cairn…
…. Legend tells us that Meadhbh was buried standing upright within the chamber, with her armour on and facing her ancient enemies …. Great Stuff …
…. Our camp under Cnoc na Riabh ….
….Seeded dandelion heads ….
At this point we needed to make a difficult decision … we really would have liked to continue cycling into Donegal …. but time was moving on …. and we had another part of the world cycle tour planned – two and a half months artist in residence in Iceland was coming up. But also my eldest daughter was getting married in Cornwall and we did not want to miss that before the artist in residence in Iceland took place. So we made the decision to cycle into Sligeach to catch a coach to Derry and a train to Cúil Raithin to see Clochán an Aifir. we came to the conclusion that we had just enough time to do this before heading back to Duibhlinn (Dublin) as I am learning gaeilge I am alsolearning in depth the history of Ireland and as an aside the etymology of place names, I find it fascinating Dublin has origins in early classical Irish – Duibhlinn ….. Old Norse – Dyflin …. iceland – Dyflinn …. Welsh – Dulyn and Breton – Dulenn
…. So we took the coach to Derry and then a train to Cúil Raithin …. and then it was just a short ride to find a campsite within easy reach for a days ride to see the Clochán an Aifir …
…. back at the campsite ….
…. from here we cycled back to Cúil Raithin and then caught a train to Duibhlinn ….
We planned our last few days in Ireland visiting a few places of interest before heading back to see my daughter in Cornwall top of the list were the public art works concerning what I consider a crime against humanity – Holocausd na nGaedheal ….. Sídhe an Brugha ….. and the butterfly house just along the coast at Mullach Íde, as well as just a wander around and a trip to the cinema ….
… last campsite in Eire … for now … just outside Duibhlinn ….
…. We then went in search of a particularly notable mathematician … who came up with this ….
i² = j² = k² = ijk = −1
…. Our good friend Tanya had told us about the butterfly house at Mullach Íde ….
… Just a few of the many monuments … to comemorate this crime against humanity that was …. Holocausd na nGaedheal …
Our last major place of interest to visit …. for now …. was, and the place has several names ….sometimes called Sid in Broga. The name in modern Gaeilge is Sídhe an Brugha or Sí an Bhrú. Also known as Brú na Bóinne. It is an interesting name …. Bhrú is the old gaeilge word for womb, and Bóinne can be translated as Moon or as the bright Cow …. hence ‘Womb of the Moon …. or Womb of the Bright Cow. So this is interesting for me as the Moon is a prominent feature and a recurent theme in a number of my paintings which touch upon ideas in modern cosmology and the origin of the Moon and in mythology …
In brief then the idea that the Moon formed from a colision between a Mars sized proto planet and the Earth some 4.2 billion years ago. and fascinating to me is the name given to this Mars sized proto planet …. ‘Theia’ and so The Moon in ancient Greek mythology is known as the daughter of Theia.
so I love the fact that the Gaeilge name for this place is Brú na Bóinne. The landscape where Brú na Bóinne is, is fascinating as well situated as it is by a bend in the river Boyne the name of which seems to be derived also from the gaeilge word Bóinne. Both the enterance to the inner chamber and the bend in the river remind me very much of the crescent Moon. However it is clear from the perfect alignment to the winter solstice that these ancient people probably were sun worshipers. The site dates to 3200 BC, On the Winter Solstice, the light of the rising sun enters the roofbox above the main enterance and penetrates the passage, shining onto the floor of the inner chamber. The beam illuminates the inner chamber of Newgrange for just 17 minutes
…. Brú na Bóinne has the largest concentration of stone engravings anywhere in Europe ….
…. Brú na Bóinne predates the building of the pyramids and was built with sophistication and an in depth knowledge of astronomy ….
… A complex of buriel chambers near Brú na Bóinne …. all with entrance chambers though not accessable to the public ….
… The curb stones are almost complete and all are engraved …. this place is amazing and it left me quite speachless ….
This blocks the entrance to the chamber of Brú na Bóinne though there is a way in to the right …. entry is by guided tour only to protect the site …
…. this carving is fascinating and very much reminds me of the rays of the sun ….
…. When inside the chamber the guides enact through lighting creating a simulation of what happens on the winter solstice ….
…. On both sides of the central chamber and oposite each other are two alcoves and inside one is the most remarkable stone carving …. This is carved from a single boulder …. I can only imagine what this must have been like to re discover this incredible stone carving which is smooth and concave …. Great Stuff
…. This was a thoruoghly glorious way to end this part of the tour ….
…. Postscript ….
Heading home I remembered that the Irish ferry company always had supurb deals if after the ferry journey we had further to travel and they gave us an fabulous deal including ferry Duibhlinn from to Caergybi and then a train journey all the way from Caergybi to Penzance. A long old journey … We had only two changes on the train one at Casnewydd, and the other at Exeter. The Exeter one proved a tad problematic as we arrived at midnight and our connection was not untill 6 30 am …. there was the possibility to catch the sleeper at around 2 20 am …. if there was room for our bikes unfortunately there was not, The station guard at Exeter was so helpfull he opened up the waiting room and allowed us to unpack our sleeping bags and wait for the later connection. Great Stuff ….
…. Exeter train station waiting room ….
…. not exactly sleeping ….
…. and then we were back in Penzance to see my daughter Saffi, check all our gear before we began our 86 day cycle tour and artist in residence of Iceland ….
…. Cycling through Conamara was amazing. We found a fab place to wild camp towards late afternoon a ways from the road with spectacular views of the mountains ….
…. Conamara wild camp ….
…. Sunset – Conamara ….
…. Sunrise – Conamara wild camp ….
…. On the road again ….
…. Pause ….
…. Self portrait and wild camp ….
Exploring the beach after setting up our wild camp
Our next stop was a visit to a rather famous historical even. This monument in the shape of an aircrafts winf is made from local stone and even has small fossils buried in the rock
This monument is actually about a mile and a half from the …. ‘landing’ …. crash site
At the crash sight which is in the middle of nowhere today ….. but back then was a rather more technologically important place … is this fun monument that is illuminated by natural light so that you can see the plane superimposed upon the landscape ….
Flight path
Although not late in the day we could see heavy clouds approaching and neither of us wanted to hang around for a down pour … there were some spots of rain … in the end though the down pour never occured and we eventually rode into fab sunshine to find our next wild camp ….. at Conamara sands …..
…. Self portrait by the sea – Conamara Sands wild camp ….
…. Conamara Sands Sunset – wild camp ….
…. Sunrise Conamara sands wild camp ….
…. Another beautiful day …. another beautiful climb ….
…. and down again …. great stuff ….
…. Pause ….
…. pause ….
… did not quite stand in the right place for the second shot … so they don’t quite match up … hey ho …
One beautiful landscape after another leaves me quite speachless …. we cycle in complete awe of Conamara …
….This day we cycled into another county ….. county Mayo …. and it looked spectacular
…. County Mayo wild camp ….
…. County Mayo wild camp ….
…. County Mayo wild camp ….
…. County Mayo wild camp ….
…. County Mayo wild camp ….
…. Crescent Moon County Mayo wild camp ….
….. Another beautiful ride ….
Our visit to Oileán Chliara
part of the kingdom of Umhailli is famous as the home of the 15th century pirate queen Gráinne Ní Mháille. Though the name pirate does not do this person justice
…. Looking back to the mainland from Clare Island ….
…. 4 nights wild camp Oileán Chliara ….
…. mixed bean chilli for dinner. Great stuff ….
…. Highest point on Oileán Chliara …. and our first Marilyn – An Noc Mor 426 m. It is the is the 7038th highest peak in the combined area of Ireland, Scotland, Wales, and England and the 621st tallest peak in Ireland ….
…. collecting dry wood for fuel for the wood burning stove ….
….yummy ….
… built around 1220 this abbey has some remarkable fresco’s that have an interesting resemblance to early cave art. In the foreground is a stone megalithe which predates the abbey by several thousand years
…. I find the fresco’s remarkable ….. it’s resemblance to early cave art is quite extraordinary ….
…. ruin ….
….. leaving Clare Island ….
….. continued in part three …..
We arrived in Eire on the 27th March and found the nearest campsite just to make things easy for the night, put the tents up and have some food and just enjoy the feeling of being back in Eire. Not the kind of camping we are used to…. it is a big area and more akin to a holiday park. And on the whole we prefer to wild camp, But we are here. On the last approach to the ferry Aaron had a puncture … typical. A relatively slow puncture and we decided not to fix it by the road but to inflate the tire as necassary, and fix it later. Also by the time we got here and with Aaron’s puncture light was begining to fade and we had time enough. Tomorrow we would decided on whether to cycle to Ennis or perhaps to take a bus to pick up from where we left off on our last tour of Eire.
And the next morning we caught a coach to Limerick where we stopped briefly to have a look around. In 1986 I took part in a student exchange between Wolverhampton Polytechnic where I did my degree in Fine Art and Limerick school of Art and Design, on this occassion it was for an ice cream and then we began cycling towards Ennis along the Eurovelo 1 cycle route.
…. Euro Velo 1 great stuff ….
…. Cycling the back roads of Eire …. quite, peaceful,
…. First wild camp in Eire, just by the side of a quite road sheltered by trees and surrounded by fields and bird song and some curious cows ….
…. The setting sun at our wild camp…. every day a different home….. great stuff… the Earth is my home …. in fact it goes even beyond that …. this universe is my home …. WOW ….
…. Sunset ….
…. Engineering at it’s most sublime …..
…. Tonights first course …. Polish beetroot soup … great stuff
….. Maidin mhaith ….. a bright and sunny morning with some dew to deal with which quickly dried and we were soon on our way
…. packed and ready for another ride … our first wild camp was a humerous experience due to the highly inquisitive nature of the cows in the next field….. we were quiet as always…. but they coukd here us chatting and making camp as the sun was setting and as soon as they saw us they would get spooked and run away. We simply ignored them and after about an hour of this they settled down and just got on with the neccessities of eating grass …..
… Our second wild camp was fab and for the first time in years we were treated to some cold mornings …. and yes I love them…. the bikes the ground the tents all covered in a thick layer of frost. The nights were suoper clear and we spent some enjoyable evenings star gazing, picking out the constellations and testing our memories and knowledge of the names of stars and the mythological stories behind them …..
This wild camp was in invitation, we had been cycling between Ennis ( Inis Cluana Ramhfhada, which translates to Island of the long rowing meadow ) and An Leacht – Leacht Ui Chonchubair which translates to The memorial Cairn of O’Connor. Well I had not even noticed the car that overtook us and a some distance ahead had pulled in to have a chat. The guy who was really friendly asked if we had anywhere to stay for the night and offered us a pitch at his place. He is setting up an off grid community with a mix of glamping, camping and wild camping at the moment it is really at the beginning of the project and he was interested in us as cycle tourists and also on the look out for like minded individuals who might be interested in being a part of this community.
Well we were at that time of day when we were starting to look for a place to wild camp and thought why not. It was just a few kilometers away down a single track lane well away from the road in a really secluded valley, and we could see why he had had this idea, it was a great spot to think about an off grid community. We had access to composting toilets and there are plans in hand to provide outdoor showers but they were not up and running as yet. and we got to stay free of charge in return for some thoughts about the project and pitching in with a little voluntary work and to throw around some ideas…….
…. Early morning frost …
… Frosty bikes ….
Donal was the owner and we ended up wild camping here for 9 nights …. much longer than we expected but Donal is a terrific host and had many tales to tell, and was very interested in our journey and that we are artists travelling the world on our bikes – artist in residence to artist in residence with no fixed plan or time scale, and we too had some tales to tell. And so we got to talking about the artist in residencies that we had been involved with and that I was due to start an artist in residence in County Kerry but due to covid that had been delayed, and in fact I am still waiting for that to be finalised, we also got to talk about our journey and particularly that we had an artist in residence later in the year in Iceland and one in Greenland in the spring of 2023…… really looking forward to them. In the end we so liked the pace and Donal was quite intrigued about the possibility of us doing and artist in residence here he was very keen for us to set something in motion. Aaron and I then had the idea, that to have a base in Ireland would be just great stuff. Donal already had a 3 meter diameter bell tent with a wood burning stove set up and a 5 meter one ready to put up so we suggested what if Aaron and I bought ourselves a yurt to put up so that we would have a place to stay and to do an artist in residence, how would he feel about that and this idea went down very well, so much so that we started searching for a second hand yurt and found one for sale only an hour away near Galway. The owner even offered to bring it to us for a small fee.
So, we now have a 16.5 foot diameter Mongolian yurt ready to put up perhaps in the Autumn or after our trip to Greenland. When it arrived we checked it over and it is now stored at Donal’s waiting for us to put up….. cycle touring … you just never know what new adventures are about to happen …… great stuff …….
… And then we went halves on a 16.5 foot diameter Mongoliam Yurt …. we won’t be carrying that on our bikes though …
…. And then it was time to continue once again heading towards Dubh linn and the ferry to the Aran Islands ….
… waiting for the ferry to take us from Doolin to Inis oirr, with the cliffs of Moher …
…. We came to know this landscape really well …. it is limestone bedrock and is fascinating visually and geologially …. Known as Glacio Karst, and the Aarn Islands are one of the best examples in the world to see this landscape carved by the last ice age …..
….. I have the feeling that there will be paintings of this coastline, we were planing to visit ‘The Buran’ just a bit further North and to see Polnabrone Dolmen, but having been 9 nights wild camping in the same place we decided to push on to the Aaran islands knowing that at some point we would be back to put up our yurt …..
On the ferry from Doolin to Inis oirr
…..Cycling up from the harbour and on our way to a campsite …. we really needed to shower … we had found a launderette on the way to An Lehcht and were able to wash all our clothes. We also had once again an early start to get to the ferry so that we arrived with plenty of light to make camp and do some exploring ….
…. Our campsite on inis oirr …. we were the only ones camping. Great stuff …..
As soon as we had set up camp ….. we had opted for a campsite on Inis Oirr after 9 days of basic camp washing we were both really looking forward to a proper shower, but then the urge to explore is never far from the surface, and although I am not physically creating artworks this whole project – to cycle round the world is a travelling artist in residence …. the residence part well that is where ever we pitch our tents and the creative artistic part becomes the entire activity – each ride an artwork in it’s own right and falls into the realm of a mix between landart and performance. though there is no definitive ‘ism’ that this can be described with, that is intentional as is artistic intent.
Glacio Karst landscape with ship wreck
The largest of the Oileáin Árann is Inis Mor which we were going to visit in a few days time, hosts a Father Ted festival, something we did not know about but this wreck is of the MV Plassy a merchant vessal that was washed ashore in 1962. It is an impressive wreck and huge and you can walk right up to it now the home of birds it continues it’s passage through time having relequished it’s purpose it now assumes a journey all it’s own ….. and seems the happier for it too ….
It is also the wreck you can see in the opening sequence of the comedy series ‘Father Ted’ one of our all time favorite comedy series. Craggy Island where it is set is a purely fictitious place but the Oileáin Árann– Inis Oirr Inis, Inis Meain and Inis Mor is the closest you can get …… It is a breathtaking place and I have many paintings in mind …..
Fossils ….. The limestone bedrock is itself almost entirely made from fossils and within the limestone bedrock on Inis Oirr are countless fossils
….Dry stone wall … great stuff
… This landscape is one of the finest examples of Glacio karst landscape in the worls formed during the last ice age it is truly a remarkable place….
Glacio karst landscape and erratic
Dry stone wall
…. It is becoming something of a tradition to collect fossils while cycle touring ….
…. The following two images are where we found some of the previous fossils ….
This was still early in the year so not all the ferry’s were operating as regularly as the do in the summer so we had to mis out on visiting Inis Meinn and head for Inis
…. Eiri gealai inis mor …
Eiri gealai inis mor
…Eri na gealai agus rothar – inis mor
Lui na greine Inis Mor
Glacio karst landscape with ancient dry stone wall
There is an extraordinary and huge ring fort on Inis Mor that forms a semi circular enclosure right up to the edge of the cliffs, and the cliffs are magnificent. This was a fab day out. What we liked about this most of all was that there were no protective barriers at the cliff edge to spoil the effect, thus preserving the character and atmosphere of the place. In the centre but fowards towards the edge of the cliff there is a raised platform of natural rock and one cannot help but feel that this place could well have been an open theatre of some kind perhaps serving multiple purposes. It very much reminded me of the Minack theatre in Cornwall in terms of atmosphere and character.
… And then it was back to the mainland …. and on to Conamara … great stuff
Part 2 of this tour of Ireland continues in the next blog post …..
…..Finally, we have an opportunity to resume our cycle tour. So excited for this. Our plan is to pick up from where we left of in Eire. we are firstly visiting our friends Carol and Steve in Bristol two fabulous musicians, a little more about them later. We have also decided to cycle the South coast of Wales from Abertawe to Abergwuan, we then catch the ferry to Calafort Ros Láir …..
One thing was certain we wanted to by pass the industrial area of Port Talb0t …. we thought about heading inland which would have been fun, one thing that concerned us was our level of fitness. We had been on the Isles of Scilly throughout the pandemic and if you know anything about the Isles of Scilly then you can imagine that cycling is really limited. For the most part we were based on Tresco where I was involved with an artist in residence and later on St. Mary’s and working officially part time (though it wasn’t) on the Garrison campsite.
When we first started this world cycle tour we had been training for 2 years while my son Aaron completed his A-Levels. So cycling every day Monday to Friday from St. Just to Penzance a round trip of 15 miles. I would cycle with Aaron, then back to St. Just to work on my paintings, then back to pick him him. so 30 miles a day Monday to Friday and usually some cycling at the weekend.
So we were fit and ready to start back in 2016 and 2017.
This time we knew that our fitness was no where near the same level …. so we decided to take it easy with ourselves and start at Abertawe cycling along the coast through the Mumbles, to Llanelli and along the millenium cycle way, then cross country to Abergwuan …. even so we encountered several tough climbs around the mumbles before begining the millenium cycle route ….. and we felt it pulling 30 kilos of gear, as we were starting early in the year we brought some warm equipment as it was still fairly chilly through the night, evening and early morning. Though our Tyin Mamut 5 season sleeping bags kept us toasty warm….
By the time we got to Aberllydan it was warm enough to consider posting some of our winter weather gear back to Cornwall….. and that made quite a difference ….
Back tracking a little to the start …..
First camp Boleigh Farm. Cornwall. I was here for about a week finishing of some work and posting some large artworks
Rainbow – Boleigh farm camp. Cornwall
This was formally my cycling start point for resuming our world cycle tour (paused due to the pandemic) Land’s End. Cornwall. Because of delay’s due to work my son Aaron had already begun cycling and was heading North solo touring – his first solo cycle tour….Great stuff ….
…. and then to have a few hours contemplation at Sennen Cove. Cornwall. This is where I scattered my partner’s ashes …. It was Julia’s most favorite place in the whole world. Shortly after we met on our degree course in Fine Art at Wolverhampton Polytechnic Julia took me here …. we had virtually no money and just along the coast from here we wild camped for about a week. It was my first ever wild camp back in 1985, and we had a fab time waking every morning with the opening of our tent pointing straight out to sea, we even snook into a campsite to use the showers which were coin operated.
We talked from time to time about doing a really long tour either walking or cycling, so it seemed an apropriate thing to do to visit this place and spend a few hours having some good memories …
Although the cycling start point was Land’s End …. this also is the start point ….. in other circumstances …. ah well …. C’est la vie …..
… and then on the way back to camp a quick stop to visit the merry maidens
…..Aaron was really looking forward to resuming our world cycle tour…. so we had a chat about how long the work delay was going to take and he had the idea to set off while I finished up organising a few last minute sales and delivery of paintings. This was a fab thing to do and Aaron’s first solo cycle tour…… Solo cycle touring is such a liberating experience….the freedom to choose your own path, you don’t have the worry to have to take into account your companion’s thought’s or ideas, or suggestions …. and the time alone is interesting, well everything about it is great stuff …..
Aaron setting off for a two week solo cycle tour
We met up a couple of weeks later in Bristol and had a few days with our great friends Carol and Steve, back in 2009 Carol and Steve with their friend Heather Gibbard all three with a passion for Early, Renaissance, Spanish, Moorish and Elizabethan Music formed Rosafresca. The music is utterly sublime and I will never forget the time Carol and Steve treated Aaron and I to a private recital in their home in Bristol ….. here is a link to their website where you can listern to some of this extraordinarily beautiful music.
Though Rosafresco no longer perform. Their last performance was at All Saints Church in Clifton on 5 March this year…..
Rosafresca …. http://www.rosafresca.co.uk/
You can also find their music here …. http://www.musicnumber11.com/
Rosafresca …. Great stuff
Always a pleasure to see Carol and Steve and it remains so, I have known them since I first visited Julia in Bristol, many years ago….probably 1985/1986…. During our visit we were again treated to some extraordinary music. Carol and a couple of musicians who had come over from Dublin to reherse with Carol with Crumhorn a most extraordinary instrument …. not to everyone’s tast …. we all thought it was wonderful. Great music, great fun fab food wonderful conversation….. Just great stuff … the next step was a train to Abertawe and begin another brief tour of Wales before continuing into Eire.
CYMRU ….. Dwi’n Caru Cymru
Croeso i Gymru. Dwi’n Caru Cymru, dwi’n mwymhau dysgu Cymraeg, though I am still learning when I am fluent I will translate this into Welsh. Rydym yn ymweld Abertawe a’r Mwmbwls heddiw
Gwersyll gwyllt cyntaf ….
Bristol to Abertawe by train, then a relatively short ride to our wild camp
I am doing this whole tour as an artist in residence ….. self organised and self funded …. each ride is in itself an artwork, what I consider to be akin to land art and so each dayI will be working as an artist as I travel. documenting the journey as I go
Although learning Cymraeg is going well I am still a long ways from writing everything I want to say so…..Aaron spotted this place just in time as we were really tired and though we were dry it look as though rain was on the way and we had had some rain throughout the day even though we had sunshine from Bristol to Abertawe. It does nit look like much, we had not wild camped in three years so we were a little out of practice, but it was sheltered it was flat and it was away from houses and it felt good to be doing this again.
Wild camp via Llanelli to wild camp at Porth Tywyn
Next few images are from cycling along the millenium cycle way ….
Absolutely wonderful to have found this …. This is a fab part of cycle touring … looking into local history …. the geology …. the culture …..
Amelia Earhart …. Y fenyw gyntaf i hedfan dros For yr Iwerydd Glaniodd yma yn y foryd ar bwys pentref Pwll Mehefin 1928 …… Great stuff
Gwersyll gwyllt cyntaf y Porth Tywyn…. Great stuff
Machlud …. gwersyll gwyllt cyntaf ger Porth Tywyn
And after sunset a full Moon rise ….. I love cycle touring
Porth Tywyn Gwersyll gwyllt i ger Castell Moel. Sir Gaerfyrddin
First maintenance issue – Aaron has a partially broken chain, so a detour was in our minds but happily the nearest bike shop which ended up not beinga detour after all was half a days ride away, and fortunately for us the chain survived until we replaced it…..
Llwybr arfordirol
Gwersyll gwyllt ger Castell Moel. Sir Gaerfyrddin
This was one of the best wild camps ever. Some ways from any roads … we had spotted this wood on the map and just new it woud be a perfect place. There was a path that led from the road which had not been used for some time … perfect …. and up a fairly steep though manageable hill towards this wood …. We quickly found a fab place between trees and enjoyed a lovely evening cooked some food relaxed replaced Aaron’s chain and waited for the stars to come out….. Great stuff ….
packing up
… ready to ride …
…. Always when wild camping our philosophy is very simple and it works…..whatever we bring with us to a wild camp … we take with us when we leave, we never ever leave rubbish or waste or broken equipement, we leave as if we were never there …. travelling the Earth lightly because the Earth is our home …
….. some terrific carvings are this woodland ….
Castell Moel. Sir Gaerfyrddin i Sancler
The next days ride was beautiful, through forests by streams and the air filled with bird song … I did not catch the bird of prey in this image, I think it was a buzzard but it took off just to the left of where Aaron is cycling along the road…. We decided at this point that a campsite might be fun ….. and Aaron found a farm cat ….
Sancler campsite
….Sometimes it’s the small things that grab our attention…
Noswaith dda ……
Sancler i Dinbach – y – Pisgod
Amroth
Fossil Brachiopods burried in Limestone ….. itself a fossil ….. Amroth
Becio Cymru
Gwersyll gwyllt ger …. Dinbach – y – Pisgod ….. which means little fortress of the Fish
Bore da
#
Aaron’s panniers were old school Karrimor panniers and they were old. and worn. We both have a tendency to use things to destruction …. repairing them along the way until we can’t… but all four of his main panniers were starting to fail. You can see in the image above that the bracket that attaches the pannier to the bike rack had completely come away from the pannier and his other three were in the process of doing the same. Fortunately this happened shortly before we found a good place to wild camp and we were able to redistribute most of Aaron’s kit so that the bike did not feel to unbalanced to ride. But it was clear once we made camp that this was going to be a problem. In the end we could not find a way to adequately repair the pannier and decided to head for a yha the next day which was a normal day’s ride but mostly flat and coastal. We had been aware that this was going to happen for a few days and had made plans. We had already booked ourselves into a yha a few days ago and Aaron had also ordered a brand new set of Ortleib panniers and checking withthe yha to make sure this was okay had arranged for them to be delivered to the yha…… So all we had to do was one days ride to get to the yha and wait for the panniers to arrive …….
Gwersyll gwyllt ger Dinbach – y – Pisgod i Aberllydan
The following day Aaron had his pannier strapped to the rear pannier rack
And off we went …..
Even though Aaron had his pannier problem it did not stop us from exploring….. that our route took us past Castell Penfro was a great chance to have a break …. it was stunning
We love these signs dotted throughout the castle …. they reminded me of the traffic warning signs in Krakow Poland ….. which have a similarly humerous touch to them ….
And Aaron and I had no idea at all that underneath Castell Penfro was this amazing cavern ……
Arriving at Aberllydan ….. somewhat early which was fab the weather was terrific.
When we arrived at the yha Aaron’s panniers had already arrived which was just fabtastic, we did not know how long they would take and in fact Aaron did have one problem witht he order in that one supplier had them advertised as in stock when in fact they were not !!!!! nevertheless I was hopeful they would be there. The moment we arrived and introduced ourselves my first question was about the panniers and the receptionist went and brought out the box …. once we were in our room Aaron quickly revealed the wondrous 100 percent waterproof panniers ….
Making a scale model of the solar system is always fun not the least of which is the curiosity of people walking past. As a rough scale we used a foot length to represent 10 million miles so then it was just a case of counting steps toe to heal to get an approximate distance. On this occassion we accessed our astronomy software to gain a plan view of the solar system so we were able to plot on the beach the approximate relative distance and direction/angles from the sun and the planets. In this scale model we included all the planets and the asteroid belt
Having left we were now on our way to the ferry port at Abergwuan …. We had liited time for this ride as we wanted to catch a ferry from Abergwuan to Ros Lair to give us enough time to find either a wild camp or possibly a campsite near Ros Lair
….And just for fun we kept the garmin going for the ferry …..
Hwyl Cymru ……. for now
….. P.S. ……
As I am doing this whole tour as an artist in residence ….. self organised and self funded I will be working as an artist as I travel. I usually take sketchbooks with basic drawing materials and my camera, and as I find places to pause I will always draw and if the weather is calm then I will create some natural sculptures in the landscape, or if the pause is long enough I may paint. As I am writing this which is after the first to months of the tour my son and I are back in Penzance visiting family and friends before we continue into Europe and on to Iceland so I have a little time to make some art. On this occasion painting and here are the first two paintings of this tour…..
The following are quick watercolours I do while on the road or when we make camp. They are quite small and are spontaneous responses to nature, and they are simple and fun to do….
and yes I do sell such small things….. contact me via e mail if interested. doms598@aol.com
Sea and Mist …. Early morning wild camp
Machlud Porth Tywyn
Amroth
Dark Sea
wild camp
Quiet scape 1
Mwmbwls
Quiet scape 2
Dark Sea 2
Quiet scape 3
Camping by the sea Porth Tywyn
Dark hedgerow – with rain
And these are the first paintings finished from this tour …..
Tresco oil on canvas 20×24 inches 2022 £495 contact doms598@aol.com to purchase
Tresco. Acrylic on canvas 20×28 inches 2022. £495 contact doms598@aol.com to purchase
Wild Flowers by the Sea Oil on canvas 28×20 inches 2022 £495 contact doms598@aol.com to purchase
Sunset. Oil on canvas 20×28 inches 2022 £495. contact doms598@aol.com to purchase
……next blog post ….. Eire
We have now been on hold for over a month due to work and weather. The work part is the fun part of the delay but only if all the work sells. So far so good….and having now written this blog,,,,,spoiler alert….they did. But as always it is not as simple as just a sale. especially when the artworks have to be shipped from the isles of Scilly to my storage container unpacked, checked, then re packaging the sold artworks and then organising a courier to transport the artworks to there new homes. And then some meetings with gallery owners and an unexpected contact from an interior designer led on to further meetings and sales and so further delaying my journey to the start of my next artist in residence in Ireland……It’s a lot of juggling….
It all takes time and then the weather also causes delay. Being on the Isles of Scilly throughout the pandemic has been great but the headache of transporting artworks from there and sometimes back, art materials as well has proven challenging at times. Especially on occassion when the artworks go missing, fortunately they were found and they all ended up where they needed to be.
So due to several last minute sales I decided I needed all my available artworks back on the mainland. Though Gallery Tresco has a number of my artworks which will remain with the gallery.
And so the first delay was due to storms prevent the paintings being shipped……hey ho
It has mean’t a lot of back and forth to the storage container ….. and patience too…. but at least the back and forth involved cycling….
First two sales During the tour – Two small drawings
Left – Clearing Skies, Sour Milk Gill waterfall. Graphite, Graphite wash, ink and pencil on paper 28×28 cm 2018, and right – Íoċtar Ċua Contae Chiarraí Eire. 28×28 cm graphite pencil ink scratchy knife and sandpaper on paper 2020. Both unframed and straight out of the sketchbook….. A lady who I met during the spontaneous artist in residence at Castle Hornek Lodge yha bought these two drawings
Second sale of the tour
This painting is fairly large at 90 x 180 cm and was packed with several paintings the same size. So once the 6 crates had been delivered from the Isles of Scilly They had to be unpacked and checked as I had people coming to view the others. And of course 1 crate was left behind so…..further delay’s, but that is part of it as well, I tend to accept those things I cannot change and eventually they seem always to resolve themselves…..
A typical bike ride
I also had a meeting with the owner curator of the Cottage Gallery which is based just outside Bristol. Who now has access to the artworks in the storage container and so the possibilty of future sales is in place while Aaron and I cycle tour between residencies. The arrangemnt is such that The gallery owner/curator can collect work to show in the Cottage gallery and even bring clients to view the work should they wish.
The other interesting delay was that one box containing 5 artworks was somehow left on the Isles of Scilly – It was something of a problem as that box contained artworks that the owner of the Cottage Gallery was hoping to see and also the interior designer wanted to see and to show to her client’s via a facetime zoom meetingso another ten days went past re organising the delivery of that box. In the end time to the meeting with the interior designer grew so short it was impossible to organise a courier to pick up the box from Penzance quay and deliver it to me at the storage container……I gave up a along time ago becoming frustrated at such things happening. It’s just life and so is not black and white – it is a rich tapestry of multi coloured chaos of epically wonderfully supurbly exciting things……with just a tad of Oh bugger here we go again……
In the end I did it by taxi, which picked me up from my capsite, took me to Penzance quay, it was a 12 seater taxi so the box fitted really well, then on to the storage container near Lands end airport, where I simply shoved the box into the container, (I planned to cycle back the next day to unpack them) and then the taxi took me back to the campsite I was staying at…..job….done at least for that day’
In fact I gave up the notion of following any kind of plan ages ago because it always changes and change is opportunity and it’s a bit like how I cycle tour anyway, it can and often does change as circumstances change. It is fundamentally about being adaptable…..
On this particular day I am now having to be patient while I await descisions on 5 other potential sales…..
So today I will be packing and posting the two drawings, and doing a little bit of bike maintenance as both my tyre’s are seriously worn and starting to show tiny cracks inbetween what is laughingly left of the tread……I do like wearing out componenets though……
Pause for thought and a pasty….
Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow – mindedness. –Mark Twain
Then to Moushole….and then back to Castle Horneck yha….to eat the fudge
Today I was splashed by a huge wave breaking against the sea wall along Penzance promenade…and now my brakes squeak most loudly…..
But my waterproofs are good, and I was dry…..
Unpacking more paintings today in preparation for a meeting with an interior designer in a few days time….
Today I washed my sleeping bag…..Tomorrow I’ll wash my clothes
In the end it was all worth it ‘Noctilucent Clouds withThe New Moon, Earth shine, Mercury Jupiter and Saturn. Oil on canvas 90×180 cm 2022 was successfully repacked and picked up though I had an 8 hour wait for the courier to come and pick it up, but at least the owner of the storage unit made me cups of tea to break up the time, I also occupied myself by playing chess via chess.com.
And even then the drama did not end. The painting was picked up on the Thursday for an overnight dleivery…..it was not delivered, and the couriers were not returning my call’s to find out why…well it turned out okay in the end the clients e mailed me to say it had been delivered on the Sunday……
You never know quite who you are going to meet during these travels, it is one of the reasons why I cycle tour. So next to me in the campsite is this huge caravan, when I first pitched my tent I had no idea there was anyone staying there it was raining and light was fading fast so I did not pitch too close but nevertheless it seemed so the next morning because well the rest of the campsite is empty, but it did initiate a meeting with a very fine fellow traveller. Eventually we meet and have a chat and the guy invites me round one evening for a cup of tea. He is an interesting guy and has had a very adventurous life being a profesional mountaineer and expedition guide he has climbed all over the world including all the 7000 meter peaks and has taken people on expeditions to the Himalayers, to the North and South Pole to South America, pretty much every where. This guy took Buzz Aldrin to the North Pole in 1998, showed me all the pictures, and he has a signed framed photo of Buzz Aldrin walking on the Moon…. in fact he told me so many stories I can’t possibly write them all down yet, so I will only briefly mention this now and over the next few days I will add one or too more stories about this encounter. He also took Jim Lovall of Apollo 13 fame on an expedition gto the North Pole and one evening while making camp and cooking food, they had been on expedition for a while and were at this point as with Buzz Aldrin become good friends, so as dinner is being prepared he says to Jim, ‘ right I am going to close my eye’s and when I do I want you to say to me….’Houston we have a problem’… And of course Jim Lovall says the words…..
Be fearless in the pursuit of what sets your soul on fire. – Jennifer Lee
The meeting with the interior designer went really well and the clients bought two from me and one direct from Gallery Tresco. Great stuff…..
They bought the following 2 paintings direct from me …..
…And the clients chose this one as well….this painting has an unusual title….well not for me though….
Oil on canvas 2022 £1600 – sold
This painting does not have a written title, it is part of a continuing series of artworks inspired from my interest in astronomy, which in the end is just an extension of my unquenchable curiosity about nature. I follow a lot of science stuff and this painting is a response to the Solar and Heliospheric observatory data collection for a period of a month which was the transcribed into a sound that we can all here. The process is called sonofication, The sound lasts only a short time so I pkayed around with it looping it to a length I was happy with. So the title for this painting is that sound. It is what the sun would sound like if it were possible to hear the sun.
And this one from Gallery Tresco….
Misty Day 50×71 cm 2019 £695 sold
So I still had one more work related loose end to sort out. A lovely lady in Amersham bought a huge painting last year…..it also went missing for some time….I think about three weeks in the end. Fortunately Gallery Tresco were able to sort this problem out and the painting eventually arrived, but there was some damage to the surface of the painting and so it was arranged that I would travel to Amersham to access the damage and repair the artwork. In the end the damage turned out to be a strange stain on the canvas, which was not to difficult to sort out in the end. Though I am still somewhat puzzled how that happened as both myslef and Gallery Tresco are certain that the painting was packed and sent in perfect condition.
However a few years before the client had also purchased a painting from up that had also been damage through her children’s play and that was something a litle more difficult to repair as the impacts had cracked the paint creating concentric ring cracks around the impact site. So on my first visit a began the repair work and on this second visit I was then able to finish the repair.
So from Tuesday 8th to Wednesday 9th I was doing this….sorry for the blured image…..
…And again travelling back from London I meet firstly an interesting indivual on the train who renovates vintage bicycles and we had a fascinating talk about bicycles, bicycle maintenance, swapping stories and travel plans. between Truro and Penzance there was a bus replacement survice and I can’t help smiling because I am suddenly reminded of a song by a band called Half Man Half BuscuiT. The song is a particluar favorite of mine…..’National Shite Day’ I post it on my facebook page on the anniversary of the UK’s beyond insane and utterly stupid decsion based as it was on the insane lies and corruption of the CONservatives to leaving of the E.U.
And then on that bus I meet another interesting individual who is an ecologist and again our conversation is a sharing of interests and stories.It is just great stuff.
I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move. – Robert Louis Stevenson
Concurrent with all this my son Aaron who is again my touring companion has been having adventures of his own, at the outset of this sempeturnal delay….it really does seem like that some times Aaron decided to do some solo cycle touring himself and has been travelling East along to South coast to Dartmoor…..Well you will have to wait to see the images and stories he has…..because well at the moment I have the laptop but at somepoint we will add it to this blog post…..
The plan is to meet at Pwll Deri Cymru, where I shall attempt to write my blog in Welsh. Dw i’n mwynhau dysgu Cymraeg, aros dw i’n caru Cymru, a dw i eisiau yr iaith Gymraeg parhau
It is absolutely fab when you can work off the cuff like this with no preparation and everyone is on board with the idea. So as we were about to start the cycle tour North I sold a large painting but it needed to be brought over from the Isles of Scilly and an individual crate needed to be made by me, in order to ship it to the clients.
This is the painting that sold, and is from my artist in residence at Gallery Tresco Isles of Scilly January 2022
So a delay but a worth while one which led us on to staying somewhat longer at Castle Horneck Lodge YHA. No problem with that it is a fab place. Set on the outskirts of Penzance and in a small woodland we were woken each morning and serenaded into relaxation each evening by bird song. It is huge Georgian building, and the staff are wonderful. Many years ago as a teenager I began cycle touring becoming a member and staying at many YHA hostels.
I have to say that nothing has changed for the worse, somethings are done differently concurent with the changing of the times, staying at Castle Horneck brought back such wonderful memories…..it is a fab place…. It was useful as well to have a base for a few days before heading North to make some final changes to what we were going to take with us. We were trying to reduce to a minimum what we packed into our panniers and this needed a fair amount of thought.
Just before coming here and while still on Tresco we had been in touch with my close friends Jan and Ewa and it is they that organised our stay at Castle Horneck Lodge YHA they wanted to come down from Manchester to see us before we left on our cycle tour to multiple artist in residencies over the next year. Our friendship is a long one and dates back to 1991 when we met in Krakow Poland. Jan and I were doing our ten month postgraduate sholarship in Fine Art at the University of Fine Arts in Krakow. That year was one of the defining times of my life and I carry those experiences with me every day. Jan and Ewa were married in Krakow, and I was of course present. This visit of their’s to Penzance was also an off the cuff last minute decision to meet up to celebrate their 30th Wdding aniversary and we had a fab time, though they were only down for 2 nights due to work we made the most of them. Good food, great conversation, making plans to meet up later on and generally enjoying each others company…..
Jan and Ewa……
Me,my son Aaron and Ewa
My son Aaron Jan and me
…A walk to Mousehole… Me and Ewa
Our room, which turned into a drawing studio for just a few days…
The YHA lounge which became a place to write my website blog….
We also took the opportunty to collect our bikes from the storage container over at kelynak and to begin final preparations for the cycle tour checking over the bike and going through all our equipment to see what we could leave behind to make the bikes as light as possible……
I had noticed immeadiately that the YHA has a collection of original artworks and after Jan and Ewa headed back home I got chatting with the receptionists about this…..that groups and individual artists had donated artworks to this YHA, and so I explained what my son and I were doing with our long term cycle tour round the world and how I organise artist in residence opportunities as I go some like this voluntrary and impromptu and others planned long in advance and I wonder if theyt would be interested in having some some drawings, it would have to be drawings due to time limitations and access to art materials – to add to there collection and they were very happy for this.
Following three images are of the artworks now part of the YHA Castle Hornek collection.
We had also planned to visit friends in Bristol before heading into Wales, but the delay with shipping paintings due to storms had complicated things in the end we decided to go and see our friends anyway and just accept that we had to come back to Penzance for me to finalise sending the painting to the client. Being in Bristol is also a mixed bag of stuff for me. I love the city and have a lot of memories here. My partner Julia came from Bristol, but it is always great to see firnds especially after the pandemic….
Carole and Steve are musicians who specialise in medieval renaiscience music and they are superb. I do not have many photo’s as I am too involved in their company but here is a small sample of their musical instrument collection. These are some Carol’s Crumhornes… the smaller ones that is. They are the ones with the bend…..
And I had to visit the house my partner Julia grew up in, in Cotham
…..In between all of this we were cycling about too, making sure the bikes were okay and all the components were fine…..
…A typical ride…
Theia oil on canvas 90×180 cm 2022
This painting grew in the making, and became more than just a single work of art. My interest in astronomy and mythology continues to inform the work I do to an ever increasing level, and mid summer 2021, after several long and difficult weeks working on the Garrison campsite, Aaron and I had the chance to visit Samson, one of the uninhabited Islands which we had been waiting to visit for quite some time, I was intrigued as the Island has ruins that date back around 4000 years and I wanted to visit the buriel chambers. One of the the members of staff here has ancestors that were inhabitents of Samson many years ago. To have that connection is fascinating and I was looking foward to this visit with anticipation. As it happens we had good weather and again the Moon was in the sky, and the ideas for paintings as always where instantly filling my thoughts. That evening we were relaxing over a few beers and some food. It was a glorious summer evening. That lovely king’s Blue of the sky, long wispy sirus clouds streaking across the sky and their framed in the sky by these clouds – the waxing gibous Moon. The atmosphere was clear and it was easy to pick out several large features on the surface of the Moon including mare serenitatis, mare tranquillitatis, Mare Crisum, mare fecuditatis, Plato crator was just about discernable as was Tycho crater, Mare Firgoris, mare imbrium, and mare nubium. The Moon as always is captivating and the conversation faded for me at this point as I just stared at the Moon. It always fascinates me as it seems to be there in complete calm and absolutely beautiful. It reminds me of The Hitch Hikers Guide To The Galaxy in which Arthur Dent asks the wise old bird in exaspiration what is keeping the cup in the sky from falling, and the wise old bird replies ‘art’ that it is artistically correct. The Moon always seems to have in a far more serious way that feeling of being in absolute harmony, perfectly placed, artistically correct. Call it a feeling of awe and beauty and connection with nature. As always when I observe I draw upon a wealth of knowledge gained over many years and I start to rumage through what I can remeber of the names of the surface features, the history of the Apollo missions, humans landing on the Moon, and the theories of how the Moon formed, that as moons of the solar system go, in comparison to other moons and there parent bodies the Moon is exceptional in it’s size compared to the Earth…… During my contemplation of the Moon, visiting Samson and in the evening I considered once again the origin of the Moon, oddly I had been reading a new article on this subject involving a collision between the proto Earth and a Mars sized proto plant named Theia billions of years ago. Hence the Title ‘Daughter of Theia’ and that evidence for Theia or whats left of Theia are buried deep inside our planet. So there I was sitting contemplating that deep beneath me were the remnants of Theia and above was the Moon both consequences of that immense collision, and that those remnants deep in the Earth also cause the Atlantic magnetic anomaly…….. And at the same time the reasons for the title of this painting are also intimately linked to the naming of ‘Theia’ and the mythological stories behind Theia, which are fascinating. In greek mythology Theia was the Titan goddess of sight, (thea) and the shining aithre (ether) of the bright blue sky and right there we have the first visual connections as Selene one of the three children of Theia is the orginal name for the Moon, hence the title Daughter of Theia and the observers gaze is directed towards the Moon in this painting. The bright blue of the sky is representative of Theia – goddess of the deep blue of the sky. Theia also in mythology endowed silver and gold with their brilliance and lustre and so the bright silver luster of the Moon is also a direct reference to the goddess Theia. It is the focal point as it was mine on that evening – Theia bore the titan Hyperion three children Helios – the Sun, Eos – the dawn, and of course Selene the Moon.
The three children of Theia are also implicitly though indirectly in this painting. The painting has no particular refernce to being a dawn or a sunset there are no references to any particular time of day except for that time of day when I once again was caught up in contemplating our understanding of nature, but only for the purpose of the beginings of this description and so Helios the sun is part of this painting for without the sun how is one to see anything, also the painting could be after dawn and so Eos is implied and of course Selene – the Moon is the focal point.
The painting then conspires to present to the viewer all these aspects in one view. The mythology, my fascination, and our contemporary understanding for the origin of the Moon……and contiguously even through the four orientations of the painting, this remains the same.
Noctilucent Clouds withThe New Moon, Earth shine, Mercury Jupiter and Saturn. Oil on canvas 90×180 cm 2022 £3400
The artist in residence lasted for three weeks this year and my duties included checking on artworks in the time share properties and some public areas. The main one which is something I do every year is to remover and clean my 5 paintings commissioned in 2010 that are in the indoor swimming pool in the seagarden complex. The paintings have been protected from the humidity of the swimming pool using a double rectified genuine turpentine and wax based varnish and I have had no problems with the varnish since the paintings were installed, but they do need to be removed and carefully cleaned as salts in the atmosphere of the pool due to high humidity tend over time to condence onto the surface of the painting and if left will build up and form a distinct opaque crust. So this took two weeks.
4 of the 5 indoor swimming pool paintings
Sea Garden complex – building to the far left is the swimming pool
Indoor swimming pool which just about skows all 5 paintings
One of the things I really like to do is check on my late partners paintings. Julia was a Tresco Gallery artist and also took part in Gallery Tresco’s artist in residence program. For those who visiting my blog for the first time Julia died August 2010, but I love to see her paintings just to check on them and make sure there has been no damage so here are a few of Julia’s paintings. Some of which are held in trust by Tresco Estate until our children have places of their own. And occassionally our paintings hang together……
My other duties are really just based upon my own work. Usually I will carry sketchbooks, observing and drawing and making temporary stone sculptures on the shore. I also use a camera and inbetween all of this we have some fun. The drawings, the temporary sculptures, the fun we have, from observing the night sky, kayaking, simply walking sitting, contemplating all feed into the next series of artworks I will create.
View from our accommodation
Aaron setting off for the day to explore
Aaron setting off again for another days exploration…..and yes this will definately feature in the next series of paintings
Exploring…..
Aaron setting of again to circumnavigate Tresco and Bryher, landing at Samson on the way back
At the North end of Tresco on the moor
Looking into the West towards Bryher
Exploring….
Cromwell’s Castle
Exploring, scrambling, contemplating…..
So next is the sketchbooks…..
Moon rise
Dawn
Dawn Eastern Isles
Dark Sea
Crescent Moon rise
Stormy day
Stormy day
Venus
Mars
Temporary stone balance sculptures
Sentinel of sorts – Prometheus extruded
In conversation with the anomaly…… watched
pause for effect
Sulis No.1
Paintings finished during my artist in residence…..
….And that concludes my first artist in residence for 2020 on Tresco for Gallery Tresco. I have enough sketchbook ideas for numerous paintings and every year I discover new ways to explore this place. I progress are several paintings about my son Aaron kayaking , some more astronomical and mythological inspired artworks and of course we had storms and those experiences will also lead to new artworks….. Next I have a short artist in residence at Castle Horneck Lodge in Penzance and that will be the next blog…..
The case of an unknown photograph…..
At the outset of this I want to say a big thank you to my co conspirator Carole
who has been a veritable whirlwind of insight with the ability to unearth details I thought completely lost forever all the find a grave memorials have been created by Carole….. a sorceress in the dark and veiled arts of family history research beyond compare
This is going to take some time to write and as I start, I have no idea how to write this history, finding the details has been a journey of more than 22 years filled with small finds, dead ends, and many pauses. It’s not that I have worked on this continuously, there have been many long pauses, due to frustration, family life, work commitments, and a lot of fun along the way too, just all sorts of life stuff really.
Oddly or perhaps not, it is in the last two months (October and November 2021) through my good friend Carole and mainly through several of Carole’s extraordinary insights, which have led to some remarkable and subtle finds that this story is here for the telling….and it is such a long tale to tell I have split the telling into two parts. At the outset this story is not complete, probably never will be, there are always little details that surface from time to time and so I will no doubt add to this story over time…….
As always family history research is a work in progress and anyone who thinks it is simply black and white is not going to come to grips with this kind of research. There are all kinds of resons why family history is so problemetic, not just the finding, checking and cross referencing of records but because we are dealing with human beings. I guess it can be best summed up like this……
The heart cherishes secrets not worth the telling
Memories
Actually the journey is much longer, it goes back to a memory of mine – finding original birth and marriage certificates for Rose in my dad’s bureau when I was very young. They were very delicate, damaged and very old…… my maternal grandmother Rose was born 12th August 1881 Great Yarmouth Norfolk, as of this year (2021) 140 years for the birth certificate……Wow….. As with my paternal and maternal grandfather’s I never met Rose, she passed away in 1962 less than a year before I was born, but as my mother was pregnant with me in 1962, I was born in February 1963…at least my grandmother and I were alive at the same time, I estimate that my Mum would have been around 2 months into her pregnancy with me at the time Rose passed away. I have always been curious as to who she was, what was she like, where did she live, and that for some reason I cannot really explain there has been this overwhelming desire to re discover, to tease back into existence her story. I think I was maybe 6 at the time, possibly younger, when I came across those certificates. Regretfully I was not gentle with these finds and I have to admit to being responsible for causing some serious damage particularly to the birth certificate so that now what I have are but fragments…. Something many years later I would come to deeply regret…
So, here is whats left of her birth certificate……………….. we have the county – Norfolk, her parents Charles and Eliza, her name Rose’ and the date Aug. 12th 1881…..
That she passed away before I was born has left me with an odd sensation that I cannot quite describe. Not loss, not sadness, not grief. Since I never met Rose non of those feelings apply. And it is not the same for most of the rest of the tree….. Though there are perhaps a handful of other ancestor’s that give me the same need to know more. Ellen Cass my grandmother on my father’s side is one, though I met Ellen several times that I recall and probably more often than I can remember, also her mother Jane Thompson my great grandmother is another, who will feature in other stories….give me the same need to know more.
Memories
A number of years later after dad had retired and my parents had moved back to Torisholme Lancaster and I was visiting from my degree in fine art at the Polytechnic Wolverhampton, dad had a bottle of red wine to share, then later the whiskey came out, Mum would have a gin and tonic, the family tree, also spread out on the table, and we would chat into the wee early hours about what we knew, and more intriguing to me…..what we did not know. I loved those evenings one subject leading on to the next, it was great stuff. At this time we knew that Rose and her sister Alice had been in an orphanage in Leeds in the late 1800’s when they were young, but we did not know the details pertaining to their admission to the orphanage, which orphanage, and certainly the consusus was that any records would have long since been lost, we did not know how long they stayed, when they left, or what the family circumstances might have been to have them admitted to an orphanage. That they had been in an orphanage was a huge thing to me, I have more than a passing interest in this time mainly from an arts perspective, particularly where that art is a social and political commentary of the times, and in researching particular artists I will inevitably wander around the subject into philosophy and art, and the living and social conditions during particular times, as a result I have a huge empathy for social injustice then and now. And a huge admiration for those that have tried to help those in need. Context is a huge thing for me.
At this time we had no documentation proving their admission to an orphanage in Leeds and no idea how to search for such evidence, it was what my mum knew. And from what was left of the birth certificate we had for Rose we had her mothers name Eliza, and from the marriage certificate we had their fathers name and occupation. Knowing he served in the army helped, and we knew when and where Rose and her sister Alice, were born.
So a few clues…… but puzzling ones
One of the puzzles from the start was How did Rose and Alice end up firstly in an orphanage in Leeds ,as Rose and Alice were born in Great Yarmouth Norfolk. and then moving to Lancaster. How and under what circumstances Rose met her future husband Sam is intriguing, something I will come back to….
It was a mystery
In researching family history there is a knock on effect from being in a patriarchal dominated world. And Dad did understand this….where we perhaps differ is that he accepted it as normal whereas I do not……So there is a reason for my father to be to a certain extent more interested in tracing his paternal line or to be fair in following the path of least resistance, since that is where he made most of his discoveries. there is a bit of both in this……particularly because of the kind of prejudice and bias in society as a whole, that is…..everything being set up from a patriarchal perspective. So for instance to give an example in brief the bride taking the grooms surname, and as such the implications of property, ownership etc which to me at least I find distasteful to put it mildly, to the point that my partner Julia and I never married, that proved to be something of an issue for my father, I never regretted that, we never divorced never strayed and had 26 wonderful years together until Julia passed away in August 2010.
To go off on a tangent here, my favorite painting of all time is J.M.W.Turner’s ‘Slave Ship – Slavers throwing the dead and dying overboard, Typhoon coming on’. I so much prefer this original title. First exhibited in 1840……and to put it into context that event is just one year after Rose’s father was born, I love making these connections. For me it brings history to life……much more could be said. And it is a right pain in the arse when researching my maternal family history. So my father focused his energies on achievable goals and I do remember him complaining bitterly about how finding out anything about Rose and Alice and her parents seemed impossible. And even now the story is not complete…… From the outset Rose and Alice fascinated me….perhaps it was being told that in all likelyhood the records were lost destroyed or just not properly kept. Perhaps it was about the challenge to re discover her story. There is a large part of me that will not give in, or give up. Even in my choice of career – being an artist is something that so many people have tried to say…..you will never make a living doing that, even some lecturer’s…. so I wanted to know Rose’s story. I was somewhat motivated. If someone tells me I can’t or won’t, I just tend to smile and say well….we will see….
I mention this because researching this part of the tree has been incredibly difficult, even Rose and Alice parents have been so problematic to research, compounded by the reason above but also their father’s name was Charles Brown, so even the path of least resistance was difficult as Brown is such a common name. As well as being in the army there were indications of shoemaker as profession perhaps dating to before his enlistment and interestingly a stepson turned up on the 1881 census with the profession apprentice shoemaker, There were also a number of other Charles Brown’s turning up with this profession, and confusion reigned supreme for quite some time with the spelling of the surname turning up as either Brown or Browne, confused further because his birth year varried according to which documents we looked at….. so lot’s of potential lines back with no clear correct line….confusion, frustration continued. It only became completely understandable quite recently when my good friend Carole teased back into knowledge the fact that both Charles’ parents died when he was very young and that he was brought up by – we think close relatives. There was a terrific hint that Carole spotted on Charles militery record which I will come back to in part 2. This is why it is so difficult to write this story as everything is interconnected and you can’t quite see the picture until ever piece of the puzzle is in place. So he thought his father was a Charles Brown. More about that later…….And even further compounded as only much later did Carole and I realise that this journey of research proved even more difficult due to the many fatalities to many families of the time through waves of illness and disease.
The other thing that fascinated me again tracing back the maternal line is evolution and mitochondria, the fact that our mitochondria trace an unbroken maternal line all the way back in time to ‘mitochondrial Eve’ is fascinating, of course it goes back much further – 3.8 billion years further to L.U.C.A. the Last Universal Common Ancestor. I have taken a DNA test and the results are fascinating….. and that is yet another story to tell.
The first breakthrough……
I had already found Rose, Alice, and a step son George Adams with their parents living in North Denes North Star Battery near Great Yarmouth on the 1881 census. It shows Charles Brown age 41 born 1839 – occupation Acting Bombardier in the G B Royal Artillery born Norwich Norfolk. Eliza aged 35 born 1846 Diss Norfolk. George Adams (stepson) aged 11 born 1867 Diss – shoemaker, and Alice aged 1. born 1880 Gt. Yarmouth. So this was great stuff and gave us a lot to work with.
Charles date of birth has been a real headache and has cropped up on different documents with different years…..although a pain it turned out to be a deep clue as to his history. That I now knew where Eliza was born was fantastic at this time I had no idea of Eliza’s surname but to suddenly have George Adams as step son was brilliant as immediately that gave us Eliza’s surname – Adams….. I deduce this for it was common that when born out of wedlock the mothers surname would be given to the new born. I will come back to this story in part 2 of this tale…..for now I still want to concentrate on Rose and Alice……and poor George well he still awaits some research…..I have a suspicion that George was their son but born out of wedlock….
The first breakthrough about the orphanage was really exciting…..
Whilst researching and knowing that they ended up in Leeds I came across the 1891 census for Mount St Mary’s Convent and Orphanage in Leeds. And listed were Rose Brown and Alice Brown. Aged 9 and 11 both born in Great Yarmouth. It seemed right, but still not absolute proof as such. The dates though seemed to fit.
So then I started to search for any information or history about Mount Saint Mary’s Convent and Orphanage, and I came across a history of the Convent written by Helen Kennally. The book is fascinating. At the same time I was also looking for any census that might have Rose and Alice and there parents Charles Brown and Eliza, but I will come back to that shortly. Here is what I found.
In brief then this is what the book is about…..
In 1853 four sisters of the Oblates of Mary Immaculate arrived in Leeds to work at the recently established Mount St Mary’s Chapel in Richmond Street, The Bank, a district largely inhabited by Irish families who had fled from the Great Hunger in Ireland. (a famine caused by the British and led to over a million Irish starving to death) From their temporary convent in Cross Green Lane, the sisters began there work. In July 1853 the first school of the new Mount St Mary’s Parish was formed in the convent cellar which was used as a wash house during the day and converted into a school room at night. From this very humble beginning there evolved a remarkable story.
The sisters had a strong conviction that education would provide a way out of the poverty that they witnessed amongst the Irish families on the Bank. Out of this conviction grew a unique complex of buildings on the summit of Richmond Hill.
A new convent was built along with elementary schools for boys and girls, an orphanage which was the first one to be established in the Leeds Diocese, and in 1896, St Mary’s College, which was the first catholic secondary school for girls in Leeds. All of these were clustered around the cathedral sized Mount St Mary’s Church.
Based on school records and contemporary accounts the book describes the struggles and successes of the teachers, children and their families, living in what was one of the poorest areas in the city. Also included are interviews and personal memories of past and present pupils and head teachers. Anyone who has a connection with Mount St Mary’s or the Bank, or has an interest in education will find it informative, at times sad and at other times amusing, but always very thought-provoking.
Helen Kennally was born in Leeds. She received her educated at Cockburn High School and then trained as a teacher. Apart from one year in London she taught in Leeds schools until her retirement in 1991. Since retirement much of her time has been devoted to researching the history of the Irish community in Leeds, particularly the families who settled in the district known as the Bank. Along with her husband Danny she has been involved in the campaign for the preservation of Mount St Mary’s Church.
The book can be obtained directly from Mount St Mary’s History Group c/o 15 Gledhow Wood Grove, Leeds LS8 1NZ
I was intrigued, and felt that I was on the track of something….. I wondered if perhaps any records had survived, well the only way to find out was to try and contact Helen Kennally to find out if the records for the orphanage still existed and where they might be held, and she very kindly wrote back with a contact address for where the records were kept, but informing me that they were incomplete. Well I then wrote the following letter to Leeds Catholic care where the records were held explaining my interest, but with the knowledge that the records for Rose and Alice may be lost…..
Here is the letter I wrote…
Leeds Catholic Care,11 North Grange RoadHeadinglyLeeds 6 2BR
June 3th 2008
Dear Sir/Madam,
To introduce myself my name is Chris Hankey and for some years my father and I have been researching our family history and have managed to get back to the early 17th century on our paternal side of the family. Sadly my father passed away in 2005, but I am continuing to research my maternal roots and this side is proving more difficult, but I am making some progress.
Recently I came across census returns that show two of my ancestors were admitted to Mount St. Mary’s Orphanage. Here’s the background.
My mother’s maiden name is Fitzpatrick and her parents were Samuel Fitzpatrick b. 1879 Bradford and Rose Brown b. 12.08.1881 Great Yarmouth Norfolk. Rose married Samuel in Lancaster 27.08.1906 and died 14.07.1962, less than a year before I was born.
My reason for contacting you is concerning Rose Brown and her sister Alice Brown b. 1880 Great Yarmouth. Their parents were Charles Brown b. abt. 1840 and Eliza. I know very little about Rose and Alice and even less about Charles and Eliza. Charles was an acting bombardier in the G.B. Royal Artillery and it seems that there is also a step son by the name of George Adams which suggests that Eliza may have been previously married or had a child out of wedlock in which case I believe the child would have taken Eliza’s maiden name either is a possibility.
However It’s really all about Rose and Alice Brown as I have discovered they were both admitted to mount St Mary’s Orphanage which is shown on the 1891 census return for England and Wales. I have enclosed a copy. I do not know the exact date when they were admitted and I am hoping to discover the reasons behind this. At the time of the 1891 census Alice would have been approx. 11 and Rose 10 years old. I have also enclosed a copy of the 1881 census which shows Charles Brown, Eliza ,Alice Brown and step son George Adams living together in Great Yarmouth. Norfolk.
During my research I stumbled upon a book about the history of Mount St Mary’s Orphanage and schools written by Helen Kennally who I contacted and she suggested that I may be able to find out some information regarding the circumstances of Rose Brown and Alice Brown at the time of their admittance to the orphanage, and perhaps under what circumstances they left. As I have already indicated Rose eventually left the orphanage married and went on to have nine children one of whom was my mother. Alice also eventually left the orphanage and also moved to Lancaster.
I am hoping that the records of the time survive and am wondering if it would be possible for me to visit you to see the records if they have survived. Or if possible copies of any information regarding Rose Brown and Alice Brown to be sent to me.
I really appreciate your time and any assistance you can spare in looking into this.
Many thanks
Yours sincerely
Well I got a reply which was wonderful……
This was more than I hoped for as always in family research you never know if records are going to survive, I try always to have that in mind……but I could not help hoping for the records to have survived…..and they had, confirming the place and birth of Rose and Alice their date of admission, date of discharge, their address in Great Yarmouth…..and their Father’s name. Immediately it was obvious that something must have happened to their mother, and Charles situation must have been complicated in some way that we did not know….. as this record seems to suggest that Charles was still alive at the time Rose and Alice were admitted to the orphanage……and still living at 35 Beaconsfield Ave. Yarmouth….. Carole who is great at finding census records found Charles Brown boarding with a Maria Smith at 35 Beaconsfield Road as well which also confirms the orphanage records…..
Mount St Mary’s orphanage
Reviewing what is found is always a part of this project, you never know if the path you are following might turn out to be the wrong path…..such a thing has happened to me in a different part of the tree….that to will be the basis of another tale from the ancestors, and also you never know what small un noticed details may in time once noticed lead on to further insights and knowledge.
Even in reviewing all that we have found out through documenting this there are some small details that may lead me to discover knew connections, right now I notice that on the 1891 census for Mount St. Mary’s convent and Orphanage there are the names of two individuals that might have a connection. I am still somewhat puzzled over how Rose met Samuel John Fitzpatrick – her future husband, so I noticed that there are two individuals in the orphanage one Rose Fitzpatrick aged 18- could Rose and Rose have known each other, might Rose Fitzpatrick be connected in some way to Samuel John Fitzpatrick, and secondly Annie McEvoy age 18 and in my tree I have connections to a Mary McEvoy who married Sam’s father John Andrew Fitzpatrick. So now I will be writing once again to the Catholic care to see if they have any info for these two individuals….
Call it a gut feeling….or an intuitive leap, but I have this suspicion that my grandmother Rose must have known, been friends with Rose Fitzpatrick aged 18 and that that Rose has a connection with Sam……
Also yet to be teased out is the information given to me by the Leeds Catholic Care that Rose and Alice would have had to be given letter’s of freedom (I assume from the orphanage)….. that gave them permission to marry. That is an extraordinary thing and I assume it is to do with being in Mount St. Mary’s orphanage. It also leaves a nagging thought about how Rose and Sam met. Did they meet in Leeds, or after Rose moved to Lancaster and what would have prompted that move.
I also found the 1901 census that shows Rose Brown in Lancaster working as a housemaid at St. Mary’s Presbytery, aged 19 and on the census it show’s that Rose was born in Yarmouth Norfolk. So it seems that Rose had moved to Lancaster perhaps before meeting her future husband Samuel John Fitzpatrick….
Just 6 years later Rose married Sam on the 27th June 1906…..so I wonder whether the orphange would have found places of work for Rose and Alice. I am not sure about that, But on the other hand I can’t see them just kicking them out the orphanage door. Alice in fact left the orphanage 4 years earlier than Rose…..that must have been very hard on Rose. But maybe Alice was able to put in a good word for her sister to find work as a housemaid……
In September 2021 I went to visit Carole and my cousin Linda to see my grandfather’s WW2 service medals that between us we had mange to return to the family after they had been missing for 40 plus years. That story from the ancestors is also part of this blog ….click – here is the link – to that story from the ancestor’s
As usual the conversation moved on to family history and as is often the case to my grandmother Rose, I had mentioned that Rose passed away only months before I was born and that so far after more than 30 years of searching I still had no photograph of Rose and I think that spurred Carole on to helping me track down a photo, I remember Carole being surprised that my Mum did not have any photo’s of her mother Rose, and I have often wondered about this too.
Carole’s research kept digging up more and more info. Not just concerning Rose but all my grand parents and great grandparents but for the purposes of this story I will just stick with Rose.
Firstly that Rose spent her final months in Nazereth House care home Lancaster where she passed away 14th July 1962 aged 80 and was buried in Lancaster cemetery. Her sister Alice never married and I wonder if that has anything to do with letters of freedom to marry or a choice, probably I will never know. Alice passed away 3rd September 1956 aged 76 at Moor Hospital Lancaster and probate shows she was single. Rose husband Sam passed away in 1956 aged 78 Lancaster.
Carole had written to Nazareth House archives hoping to find relatives or contacts that might have a photo of Rose. This is the most amazing thing. Carole made contact with my 1st cousin 1 x removed living in Morecambe…..Margaret phoned Carole and sent her the most amazing photo ….not just of her but of her wedding showing Rose, her husband Sam and Rose sister Alice. In the same week Carole found that all three are buried next to each other in Lancaster cemetery.
I cannot describe what this photo means to me…..I always hoped to have an image of Rose but never did I ever think to have such an image of her wedding day with Sam and Alice….
The missing photo
From left to right Rose Brown, Samuel John Fitzpatrick, Alice Brown, and Edward Fitzpatrick standing at the back.
The story is not complete, I hope to visit my cousin Margaret later in 2022 to see if I can find more images, There is also the matter of Rose letter of freedom – to marry, I cannot help but wonder if the letter survives, and of course how Rose and Sam met. One thing my cousin Margaret mentioned was that Rose always complained that the photo made the dark band of her dress look far to dark in the photo….only a small thing that comment…..but it is something along with her story that brings her to life for me, I only have a digital image so I am really looking forward to seeing the original…..
I also found Rose and Sam on the 1911 census this time in Wales…..Cwmamman about 12 miles North of Abertawa Caerfyrddin Cymru
And again confirming Rose birth to be Yarmouth Norflok. Rose and Sam had 9 children together one of whom was my mother……9 children I mean wow I can hardly imagine how that was knowing as I do now how difficult it was bringing up 3 children……
Find a Grave memorials
https://www.findagrave.com/memorial/232571158/rose-fitzpatrick
https://www.findagrave.com/memorial/232571259/samuel-john-fitzpatrick
And then there are the parents of Rose and Alice…..my great grandparents – Charles and Eliza that also is part of this story, but perhaps I will leave that for part two of this ‘Tale From The Ancestors’, especially as after finally visiting Great Yarmouth just last month.So there will be a part 2 to this tale which will delve a little deeper into Rose and Alice’ parents and further back still.
Part 2
I love this photo, Rose’ wedding day, I love that I can look into an image of their eye’s although the photo is just a snap shot the photo is evidence of the lives they lived, somehow just pausing to contemplate their lives, their memories, their hopes, thoughts, what they liked, what they did not, what made them laugh….. it’s all….though not known, it is implied….
I cannot resist sharing just one photo. that is not entirely related to this story.
This photo is part of the next generation, The wedding of Alice Fitzpatrick daughter of Rose and Sam and one of my mother’s sisters.
It is such a lovely photo, is it not…..
Alice Fitzpatrick wedding from the left we have……Cecilia, Norman Curwen, Alice Fitzpatrick, Wilfred Curwen, friend of the groome
This, part 2 of the tale starts tracing the history of Charles Brown and Eliza Adams the parents of Rose, her sister Alice, and George who according to the 1881 censes was there step brother. Charles and Eliza are my great grandparents. Their story has been incredibly difficult to unearth, and as with part one I am finding this quite challenging to write. I have spent many years researching, trying to find anything and what I did find was several possible ancestral lines back with no conclusive proof. Often leaving me frustrated, but I always sensed there was more to know, just a gut reaction and my own tenacious nature. And in the end builds upon the knowledge my parents had and research they did.
What we did know was – and this is to recap on part one – that Rose and Alice were admitted to Mount St Mary’s orphanage in Leeds when they were very young, known by my parents, though not the particular orphanage and later born out through, the research my co conspirators Carole and I did, finds like the 1891 census and through documented proof from the Catholic care archives in Leeds.
Charles was in the army as stated on the 1881 census, as an acting bombardier in the Royal Artillery Norfolk Brigade at the same time we knew nothing of what happened to Eliza maybe she passed away, but we could not find any details for this. At the time Rose and Alice were admitted to the orphanage Charles was still alive and living at 35 Beaconsfield Road Great Yarmouth Norfolk, but there was no sign of Eliza. So it was something of a puzzle. In December 2021 after some remarkable finds I decided – and this is after all the help from my good friend Carole, to visit Great Yarmouth. I wanted to see what else I could find and also just to visit the places where they lived, if indeed any still existed, walk the streets, along the beach wondering if Rose and Alice had done the same. It was my first visit to Great Yarmouth. I also wanted to photograph the places we had recently found where Charles had lived…..and this is 35 Beaconsfield Road as it now is….. it is the one with the tree between the front door and the downstairs window, We knew that this house still existed as Carole had found an image of it on google Earth, still to stand outside the place was something….intriguing, research in all of this is key but visiting these places brings the reality of the story to life….
Several years ago through my good friend Bridget back in 2005 if memory serves and at about the same time I myself acquired my fathers family history research notes I was able to acquire Charles Brown’s military service record, Bridget had been able to acquire it during one of those free weekend offers on an ancestry website, at the time I did not look to closely at it being relatively new to family history research, I was not quite aware of all the subtle details or how to build upon them so for quite some time the records were a curiosoty and were filed away. More recently my good friend Carole also acquired Charles militery service record and was able to tease out some really intriguing details…..and actually we found an awful lot, including 2 versions of his service record, where he served, promotions, and demotions, confirmation of his marital status, where he married Eliza, which led to me finding their mattiage certificate, confirmation of Eliza’s maiden name, medical records and discharge records, military pension – which was I have to say quite mean considering his long years of service (27 years 21 days)…..well that is just typical.
The following images are Charles Brown’s military record…..
Carole found this for us quite recently and I had no idea that Charles first volunteered to serve with the 1st or West Norfolk militia on 11th December 1857, being released from this to full enlistment in 1859 in the Royal Artillery Norfolk Brigade. This transfer had to be approved and is indicated as such on his enlistment papers.
Enlistment and military service record….
It is quite astounding just how much information this gives us even to the time of day he enlisted. 6th April 1859. 8 a.m. …… just great stuff. But also the parish where he was born that was a big find. St. John de Sepulcre Norwich Norfolk, and that at the time of his enlistment he was not married. And he gives his age as 20 and again the profession that is given is shoemaker which matches the 1881 census. Intriguing that he signed the form, so I guess he was literate…..
Also the record was ammended in 1879 – faintly the following can be made out…’permitted to continue to serve beyond 21 years and ????? assented to the ????? ????? ?????> of ?????
signed and dated 79 (1879)
Interestingly I have 2 versions of this page….here is the second version…. which again shows the added writing only much clearer and with slightly varying text – ‘permitted to continue to serve Hereby consenting to the provisions of part 2 of the a.d.VR. act of 1879 ou 27th July 1880…’.
Version 2
Terrific to have a description of his appearance. 5ft 6, eyes grey, hair brown, complexion fresh age 20….. and that he had a tattoo his left arm……looks like the initials of his name…..maybe
The next two images give a detailed history of Charles service record.
Sevice record continued
And a synopsis of Charles service at home and abroad……
….And here, married with leave 14th January 1879
I find this fascinating…….. that he was promoted and demoted several times, and transfered, is intriguing and on one occasion imprisoned. I get the impression he was something of a troubled or at least a fiesty character in this. The defining points of his service are as follows…..
The 1881 census has Charles as acting bombardier in the royal artillery Norfolk brigade confirmed here and also shown on his service record as part of Her Majesty’s Indian Militery Forces.
On first enlisting he was a Gunner 1st April 1859 to 23rd March 1861 and then promoted to Bombardier 24th March 1861 to 17th Oct 1862.
At this point he seems to have been progressing but after being posted in India on 27th Septemeber 1859 to 30th September 1875, he is then awaiting trial between 18th Oct – 20th Oct. 1862 and reduced in rank to gunner, and forfeit of, I presume, pay. Charles is then Promoted again in 1865 to Bombardier and then in 1865 he attains his highest rank being promoted to Corporal on the 24th August 1965….And then he is awaiting trial again !!!!! 19th January 1867 Charles is then tried and reduced in rank again to gunner on 11 February 1867….. what was he like….what did he do. Probably I will never know. Again awaiting trial 31st March to 5th April 1869 and this time tried and imprisoned from 6th April to 26th April 1869……I guess they had had enough of whatever it was he was doing to get himself into trouble…. I would love to know the details of this….His military history also shows that he was transferred and I wonder if there was a particular clash of personalities that led to his troubled service.
In 1875 he is posted back home and it was sometime 6 years in fact before he was promoted….once again to Bombardier…… 19th July 1876 just 2 months shy of a year since being posted back home. Neither his imprisonment nor his promotion seemed to stop him though as again he is awaiting trial on 2nd Novemeber 1877, tried and reduced in rank again to gunner 8th November 1877. In 1879 he was permitted to extend his service and it seems he managed to stay out of trouble for the rest of his service in the R.A. and once again being promoted to Corporal on the 24th October 1883. In 1886 Charles petitioned to be discharged from service and was discharged in consequence of having served 27 years and 21 days….. 6 years longer than required 27th April 1886….
In the end he served his first year in Norfolk, followed by 15 years in India and 11 years back in Norfolk where at some point he met Eliza.
I would really like to know where he was stationed for his 15 years and 221 days in India from 22 September 1859 to 30th April 1875. All very interesting it also provided info about his wife Eliza, which was wonderful. That they married with leave 14th January 1879 Isle of Sheppey is a fab find.
So the thing is this in no way gives any indication as to why Rose and Alice ended up in an orphanage in leeds. The main thing here is that it does confirm who Charles married as is stated on his militery record Eliza Adams…..and given leave to marry on the 14th January 1879. I still knew very little about what happened to Eliza she seemed to just disappear from the records. The main thing I was able to do was to trace Eliza’s ancestry back, now that I had confirmation of her surname from Charles military records and the 1881 census that showed stepson George Adams. I still know next to nothing about George and I do wonder if Charles is the father and that George was born out of wedlock…..something else to research. I knew very little about Charles ancestry and I just could not discover anything for a very long time any searching I did ended in complete frustration and so I followed the path of least resistance and was able to trace Eliza’s ancestry. I do not have any stories to the same detail until very recently for Eliza’s ancestors and then no where near as detailed. But I did find her parents, grand parents and on her maternal line I have traced back several generations.
It is often the way with me that I will find a historical document save it to file and forget that I have it…..it usually occurs when I have a breaqk from family history research and so I re found in a file Charles medical discharge record and I include it here as I think it is interesting to note that he was discharged with no indications of any health issues. And again his intended address is 18 Aryle Street Great Yarmouth.
With Carole’s fabulous detective skills Carole discovered Eliza’s death certificate and indeed what happened to Charles, and although the details for why Rose and Alice ended up in Leeds are still not really known it is understandable why they did end up in an orphanage. Just why Leeds….That connection still bugs me.
Carole discovered that Eliza passed away in 1886, ……her death certificate is dated 27th July 1886. and she was buried 30th July 1886. This is not long after Charles was discharged. Eliza passed away from pnuemonia, and I wonder if Eliza was not well at the time Charles applied for discharge and did so to care for his wife and children, it seems a reasonable conjecture.
Eliza passed away at 21 Garfield Terrace North Denes and Charles was present…..I have a slight nagging reservation regarding Garfield Terrace as it is not in North Denes but a fairly long walk from North Denes, and is in Caister on sea, but there is a Garfield Road, and that is literally just round the corner from 35 Beaconsfield Road…. My son and I did walk and found Garfield Terrace and there we found a number of houses that were linked by various alley ways but the houses on Garfield Terrace numbered only 1 to 12. It is of couse possible that they were demolished, but I have not been able to verify that.
The death certificate that Carole found was pivotal to tracing Charles ancestry. for two reasons. In my fathers notes he had Charles baptism occuring at St.John de Sepulcre Norwich Norfolk which is stated on Charles military record and importantly here through Carole we have a huge clue to Charles ancestry, I think this one find has been absolutely crucial – that his middle name is Thomas, that really is a big discovery on all the other documentation we have on Charles his middle name is absent and all the ancestral lines back except for one, I have never come across another reference to Charles middle name. And again Carole…WOW thank you for finding this…..that he is referred to as an army pensioner further confirms the military record is his……great stuff…..and again ….thank you Carole – You are a sorceress…..and I wonder if Charles moved to 35 Beaconsfield Road after Eliza passed away. It seems they may have moved more than once. On Charles military record it states his intended address upon discharge was to be 18 Argyle Terrace Great Yarmouth……whether that changed abruptly or they moved I do not know.
Charles…well I do not know the whole circumstances…..just yet, he eventually lived his last days in the Union work house in Great Yarmouth where he died. Dispite his 27 years service for his country, his pension was so meagre that he could not support himself or his daughters. So this is where he died, having given 27 years of service to his country, having lost his wife, having through circumstances not yet known, having his two daughters admitted to an orphanage…..
This is a plan view of the Union workhouse where Charles Brown spent his last years. We have not been able to find any records for dates of admission, interestingly the Road at the top of the image is Bescaonsfield Road where Charles lived at the time Rose and Alice where in the orphanage in Leeds….
And this is what the Union workhouse looks like today…
Charles death certificate which shows he passed away 5th February 1898 in the Union workhouse aged 67.
December 2021 my son and I decided we would visit Great Yarmouth, I had the excuse of having to do some art conservation work in London, and we decided to make a trip of it staying in London for a few days to do the work meet a very old friend Ian who I have known for many years as we studied fine art at Northwich in Cheshire and for our degrees in fine art at the Polytechnic Wolverhampton, we had a fab couple of days visiting various museums including the Horniman museum and the natural history museum.
Interlude for a different kind of fun
Visiting the Horniman Museum Butterfly House
Visiting the Natural History Museum
Blue Whale skeleton and fossil Icthyosaur with ammonite fossils buried in the Icthyosaur fossil
And then off we went catching the train to Great Yarmouth and to my utter delight it passed through Diss where Eliza’s parents had lived, I will come back to that shortly….
Walking along the beach at North Denes Great Yarmouth….could not help wonder if Rose and Alice walked here…..
While walking along the beach we spotted two seals close to the shore possibly looking for a place to rest up. When I next spoke to Carole she suggested we named them Rose and Alice. We did
……and to continue…..
Carole again making discoveries left right and center had found the cemetery where Charles and Eliza were buried along with the plot numbers for each grave and with a bit of detective work had located maps showing the sections in the cemetery were they could be located. So this was one of the main reasons for the visit to Great Yarmouth I was hoping that we would be able to locate the actual plots for Charles and Eliza.
They were both buried in the Old New Cemetery in Great Yarmouth, but not in the same section I suspect that Charles location was due to having passed away in the workhouse. Charles was located in section W and Eliza in section L Carole and I were both contacting the records office in Great Yarmouth to see if we could find a detailed layout for section W and section L which would identify by plot number each grave, if such records had survived it might just allow us to find were they were. Carole had found there exact plot numbers. Charles Brown burial place Great Yarmouth New Cemetery, section W, grave 454, interment number 11391 consecrated. Eliza Brown nee Adams Great Yarmouth New Cemetery, section L, grave 316
This was the first layout for the cemetery which shows sections W where Charles is buried and L where Eliza is buried.
though we knew that there was no headstone it seemed completely possible to find Eliza’s grave….. first day of searching happened before we recieved the detailed plot map, we just decided to go and have an explore. Our plan to just walk up and down the isles and see if there was a headstone. I can on occasion rather like cemeteries, not all of them but this one was very interesting one of those quite peaceful places with a good feel to the place, It was interesting how in places it was so overgrown and in others quite well kept, and we took a chance that maybe there was a headstone, but after a lot of searching. though there were several headstones with the name Brown and Browne non of them matched so we just enjoyed finding other possible realtives…..and photographing some of the more interesting headstones…..like this one, I found this quite, well it made me smile for though the statue had lost it’s head a pigeon provided an alternative….. and no this is not a relative….
We then acquired a detailed map of section W where Charles is buried and again we knew there would be no headstone due to his circumstances, but also the records stated no headstone indicated. It took a while to track down this map and we were warned that the plot numbers for section W were only sparsley known….. It turns out that we have no idea for the exact location though we did search….
Once we had these maps we had a better chance to at least try and find Eliza’s plot and we did, I could not quite believe that this journey all this research and suddenly we find where Eliza is burried. It was odd, no feelings of sadness or anything really. Very pleased and happy to have got this far, to have this story to tell and to write it down down. It’s a bit like turning a marble block into a sculpture, in a way the scuplure is already in there the art is in removing all the unnecassary bit’s. After seeing the plot map for section W there was little hope to find Charles exact plot though with a bit of thought and given the plot numbers that were shown it might be possible to have an educated guess as to which part of the section he may be in. I have not done so just yet.
Find a Grave memorials
https://www.findagrave.com/memorial/211767583/eliza-brown
https://www.findagrave.com/memorial/233043698/charles-thomas-brown
So their they are my grand parents….. Eliza on the left and Charles on the right, you can see from the photo of section W where somewhere charles is buried, and that there are very few headstones and though we had his plot number 454, locating it would be difficult unless we found a more detailed plot map. Eliza on the other hand we found relatively easily once we got into a method which was a combination of finding a similar layout of plots as indicated on the map and counting plots from both sides of section L. I was frankly astounded to see there was a curb memorial I could not contain my excitment and called Carole to let her know we had found Eliza’s plot and she was over the moon, squeecked in delight if memory serves and I said I was thinking of doing a bit of clean up work around the edges just to see if I could find an inscription – It could be that Carole suggested it or at least put this in my mind as I believe Carole asked me if I could see any sign of an inscription. That perhaps Eliza’s name would be engraved had not yet occured to me and that would be a final confirmation. I was a bit trepidacious about this as I did not want to be accused of disturbing a grave but Carole thought it would be okay, just someone looking after a relatives grave……. but when I found the name I thought oh bugger it’s not Eliza, at first I thought maybe we had the location wrong, but I had an idea on how we might just check, my idea was that there was a clear inscription for who was buried in plot 318, plot 315 was unmarked so that was no help, but with 318 if we could confirm the name on the headstone for plot 318 and thereby link it to it’s plot number on the map that would be a good way to confirm that we were in the right place, that the next but one plot was Eliza’s so I called Carole with this idea and she agreed and said she would do a little digging to confirm this idea. while waiting for Carole to work her magic I was re-checking that the plots matched the map and again it was the only patern of plots that matched both map and ground. We also talked about the fact that graves are re used after a time….a sort of multi story parking system, and, if you will forgive the humour in that, then great. Amazingly Carole called back within minutes to confirm the idea I had concerning plot 318. Carole and I had a bit of a chat about it and came to the conclusion that this had to be Eliza’s plot……as I say she is just a wee bit deeper. and also confirms the cemetery record that there was no headstone for Eliza.
So how crazy is this. One of the reasons at least recently (for I always have, and continue to….) feel a great deal of empathy and connection to this story is this, my partner Julia passed away in 2010 aged 45, I was Julia’s primary carer as she wanted to be at home and I was there when she died….. we have 3 children, two daughters and a son. I say recently…..Yet the need to tease this story back into existence has always been and continues to be an obsession…….and started even before I met Julia…. It is odd that as this story was teased back into existence and with every discovery, how it seems to reverberate with my own life story….not the details….not the military service, just the connection to those immense, defining life changing moments, and how they fundamentally change us….. He chose the military, perhaps out of little choice, I chose art and about that there is no choice……
It is perhaps interesting to see some of the back and forth chat I have with Carole regarding family history research here is a snipet of how things go…..We often chat about the orphanage, trying to work out the circumstances because still non of this research answers the question of why Mount St Mary’s convent and orphanage in Leeds.
Carole…..Hi there – I put a question on RootsChat ? if anyone knew why children living in Great Yarmouth would go to a children’s home in Leeds.
One answer so far saying it was probably the closest Catholic children’s home and posting this link (which you may have seen before)
http://www.childrenshomes.org.uk/LeedsStMary/
Me…..Oh wow…..that had never occured to me at all…..no I have not seen this particular page before something very similar though, and of course there was always an awful lot of prejudice against catholics, so yes this is as good a reason for them being at Mount St Mary’s as any I can think of…..really good to be able to include this… And that puts back in my mind that I would like to have a photo of the orphanage to add to part 1…..Not sure if you have seen this it is a plan view of the union workhouse in Great Yarmouth. The road at the top of the image is Beaconsfield Road where Charles lived at the time when Rose and Alice where in the orphanage
Carole….Thanks. I think that has to be that it was the closest orphanage – I can’t think of another reason. I suppose we are thinking that there would be somewhere closer – but in those days there may not have been.
Me…..They were fairly new institutions I think though poor houses did exist way before….Well I am happy to accept this reason especially with the catholic side to the story
I just found this on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yt_Fkw0Q39g&ab_channel=ChristinaCroft
Carole…..OH MY GOOD GRIEF – I was just this second going to send that to you!!!!!
Me…Flipping eck…this story just wants to be told
Carole….Ang on … were Charles and Eliza Roman Catholic? St John de Sepulchre is Church of England … am I missing or forgetting something?
Me…Ah yes you are right At least that is where Charles was baptised…..
Carole…Just noticed that the orphanage document shows Rose and Alice were baptised at St Mary’s Beaconsfield – so definitely CofE.
Me…Yes indeed, I picked up on that in that wonderful youtube video, I am going to ask if I can share it to my story as background info……I wonder if someone had to pay for Rose and Alice, I wonder in Eliza or Charles had provision for this, perhaps there are relatives that we do not know about who paid for this if so they may have organised it, or perhaps it was someone who new Charles from his military days….. Ah so many questions……it is fascinating.
Carole had been in touch with Diss town council and had a reply giving Sophia and William’s location at Diss cemetery. Sophia Adams is in plot C458. William Adams is in plot D449….. And they sent maps.
Section D. William Adams plot d449 and Section C. Sophia Baldry plot C458
Thomas Baldry was born in 1733 in Roydon, Norfolk. On 24 May 1759 he married Elizabeth Wicks in the Parish Church, Roydon and they had ten children together: Elizabeth, Susanna, Sarah, Mary, Thomas, Samuel, John, Ann, Martha and Benjamin.
Thomas passed away on 5 January 1809. The death duty records show that his occupation was farmer. He was laid to rest at St Remigius Churchyard with his wife Elizabeth and children William, Samuel and Martha.
(Of note is that William, Samuel and Martha died 1802 – 1803 which may have been due to yellow fever as there was an outbreak in Norfolk at that time.)
The Inscription reads……
In memory of Thomas Baldry who died Jan 13th (or 30th) 1809 aged 76 years. Also Elizabeth his wife who died April 12th 1793 aged 55 years. Also William their son April 4th 1802 aged 22 years. Also Samuel their son who died May 24th 1803 aged 33 years. Also Martha their daughter who died Oct 2nd 1803 (remainder of inscription is below ground – Martha was 28 years old)
It seems tragedy hit them very hard……..Martha was married to William Horne and had at least one child that I have found, Sophia 1798-1822 was married to a William Harpur and she too died very young at the age of 20, and so far I have discovered no children for Sophia and William,
Find a grave memorial
https://www.findagrave.com/memorial/234648482/thomas-baldry
Thomas and Elizabeth are my 4 x great grandparents………
Epilogue…….
Andrew has a wealth of local knowledge and has passed some interesting information to us on the Baldry family. He mentioned that at one time a branch of the family ran a business called ‘Baldry’s Yard and that the place still has it’s name on the side of the building and the door and promised to take us there on our way back to the church. It was still raining heavily still cold and we could nor resist. Here are some photo’s….
Andrew sent this wonderful image of the front door still with the stained glass
Meeting Andrew was terrific and I would like to thank him here for his wonderful hospitality and generosity in helping with this Tale from the ancestor’s
I had hoped to visit Diss cemetery to find the buriel plots for William Aadms and Sophia Baldry, but time and the weather had defeated us…..only temporarilly though…. I hope to be back later in 2022 between artist in residence projects. I know very little about William and Sophia but there is a nagging feeling of something with Sophia, and I cannot quite put my finger on it, and certainly not to the extent of the overwhelming desire to tease back my grandmother Rose’s story…..but something is there….
And so what comes next
Well I still have questions, uppermost is the letter Rose would have to have acquired giving her permission to marry, and now that I know where Rose Alice and Sam are buried I intend to visit and take some photo’s. In most cases and apart from Thomas and Elizabeth whoose headstone is still in relatively good condition there are no memorial headstones or plaques on any of their graves, something I would like to put right, even though I am not religious. I also have a return visit to Great Yarmouth in mind to find the plot locations of Sophia Baldry and William Adams and if possible to locate the buriel plots for my maternal line that I have so far discovered. This is my history, this is who I am, where I came from. Their stories, their tragedies are mine too. The search for who we are is a potent search, it is about self discovery. So I will continue to tease as much of their lives back from mists of the past as I can. Indeed it has become a part of who I am as an artist and this documenting is in the truest sense a work of art……
And a final word…
The story is not closed I have arrange to meet newly found cousins as a result of this research and another visit to Norfolk is planned for later in the year …….